Tywi Valley from Dryslwyn Castle
Perfect settings for precious photoshoots
The romantic ruins of the Tywi valley are set in the most majestic of landscapes. There’s the rolling parkland of Dinefwr Park, the lush meadows of the river valley, laced with country lanes and pathways, and imposing hills crowned, as you would expect, with castles, silhouettes against the sky. The elder statesman among them is Dinefwr; the romantic hero may be Dryslwyn, and the dramatic warrior must be Carreg Cennen.
And that iconic folly on the skyline? That’s Paxton’s Tower, popping up on the horizon from so many directions. It’s no wonder that for personal celebrations of many kinds, the lovely stretch of the Tywi valley around Llandeilo is the perfect choice. In the town itself you can eat, drink and be merry; you can buy a work of art or piece of craft that will be yours forever; you can shop for a wedding dress … And always on the horizon are the russets and purples of the Black Mountain, a perfect backdrop to the Tywi’s graceful loops.
Couples make promises, friends are reunited and families celebrate their special milestones. So bring your loved ones and your camera (or a photographer), and make this a photoshoot to remember.
To choose the place that has special resonance for you, it’s a good idea to wander around several of the places on this trail. Starting in Llandeilo itself, you can take a footpath up to Dinefwr Castle or else park in the National Trust car park near Newton House (parking fee applies). Dinefwr’s historic parkland is famed for its abundance of wildlife and stunning valley views. Some of the ‘veteran’ trees are thought to be over 700 years old. The deer park is a great favourite, and the white park cattle with their long horns are decidedly photogenic. Go up to the castle itself and look out over the lands as the great prince would have once done. Dinefwr was the chief seat of Rhys ap Gruffydd, the most powerful prince in south Wales, and known afterwards, most reverentially, as the Lord Rhys.
Leaving Llandeilo by car, cross the river to Ffair-fach. Our trail takes you down the Tywi valley seawards, but another time, another choice – involving more of a walk to its craggy summit – is the magnificent Carreg Cennen Castle near Trap, painted by Turner and photographed by millions. But this time, turn right onto the A476 and then shortly fork right onto the B4300. Look up at Dinefwr Castle from this direction and its picturesque quality is unforgettable.
As you travel down the lush Tywi valley you will see a tower straight from a storybook, perched tantalizingly on the horizon. Paxton’s Tower is only a folly, built in honour of Nelson, but who could resist such an amusing triangle of a building, with a turret at each of its three corners, and a banqueting room on the first floor? And yes, you can walk up to it, shelter inside it, climb a turret to the banquet of your imagination. Take a photograph: go on, you must. To get there, turn left off the B4300 in the village of Llanarthne, then take another turning left, looking out for the National Trust signs for the folly. When you climb the hill to the tower, you will just see the great glasshouse of the National Botanic Garden of Wales, and visitors to that wonderful garden and estate will actually be looking up at this tower. It is one of many vistas which can be enjoyed from the Botanic Garden.
National Botanic Garden Wales
Next, retrace your steps along the B4300 to the turning left for Dryslwyn. It’s not only the castle ruin itself but the lovely riverside location also makes this a much-loved landmark. To appreciate the incredible vantage-point the prince’s men would have had, climb to the top and stand inside the keep.
Dryslwyn
Continue through the village of Dryslwyn and onto the A40, turning right in the direction of Llandeilo. The perfect ending to an afternoon might be to take a turn in the garden – none other than Aberglasney House and Gardens, where both the refreshments and the garden’s wonders will sustain you. Turn right off the A40 for Llangathen. Leave yourself a couple of hours for this visit if you want to make the most of the admission fee. There are treasures in the cloister garden, in Pigeon House Wood, in the ancient yew tunnel, in the house itself… And yes, you’ve guessed it, you can arrange a bridal photoshoot here.
Return to Llandeilo to buy yourself something special: a piece of bespoke jewelry made by goldsmith Mari Thomas; a sculpture or painting at the Fountain Fine Art Gallery, or maybe just some Heavenly ice-cream for everyone. If your photos are taken, you can dare to go for the blueberry cheesecake flavour or even the chocolate peanut butter cup – divine!
ROUTE INFORMATION Length: approx. 45 miles. The roads on this trail are narrow and winding in places, so please take great care. There are passing-places but reversing around bends may be required! Cyclists need to be prepared for hilly terrain and country roads which have no designated cycle paths. Terrain can be rugged and suitable footwear and clothing should be worn when walking. Please follow the Countryside Code at all times.Images: Crown Copyright (2013) Visit Wales
Map data © OpenStreetMap contributors
TywiValleyTrails 